~First Ascents

Photo: In the Heart of the Olympics, 9-plate panorama from the summit of Mt. Queets, 1907. (Click to enlarge.)


Photo from the first Ascent of Mt. Olympus, published in the 1907 edition of The Mountaineer Annual.

This page provides a timeline and listing of the recorded first ascents in the Olympic Mountain Range, from Mt. Ellinor in 1879 to Wounded Knee in 1997. Note that the first ascents listed are the first recorded party on the summit, via any route. First route ascents are not considered, and many peaks are not listed.

The list was compiled from information in the Climber's Guide.



Timeline of Recorded First Ascents in Olympic Mountain Range, 1879-1997 (sorted by year)




Table of Recorded First Ascents in Olympic Mountain Range, 1879-1997 (sorted by year)

  • PEAK NAME = name of peak or formation
  • YEAR = year of recorded first ascent;
  • PARTY = names of party members;
  • NOTES = any other notes from guide, for example, the route taken.
PEAK NAME
YEAR
PARTY
NOTES
Ellinor, Mt 1879 D. Utler, H. Esteps, Mr and Mrs J. Waughop from Lake Cushman
Athena II 1890 Berbard J. Bretherton, Nelson E. Linsley, Private John Danton strong evidence this was the first ascent, making it the first Olympic "seven thousander" to be climbed. The men were members of a party sent to Mt. Olympus by Lieutenant Joseph P. O'Neil, commander of an exploring expedition jointly mounted by the US Army and the Oregon Alpine Club. They placed a copper box containing a register book about 400 feet below the summit, but apparently it has never been found.
Queets, Mt 1890 Harry Fisher (aka James B. Hanmore) and Nelson Linsley of the O'Neil Expedition
Duckabush, Mt 1899 L.F Murdock
Olympus, Mt (E Peak) 1899 Jack McGlone, member of the Dodwell-Rixon survey party
Christie, Mt 1907 Asahel Curtis and party
Meany, Mt 1907 Asahel Curtis, Lorenz A. Nelson, Peter McGregor
Noyes, Mt 1907 Asahel Curtis and Grant Humes
Olympus, Mt (Middle Peak) 1907 Belmore H. Browne, Walter G. Clarke, Will Humes, Hershel C. Parker, Dewitt "Dewey" Sisson
Olympus, Mt (W Peak) 1907 Lorenz A. Nelson and ten members of The Mountaineers - Andrew W. Archer, John B. Flett, Theodore C. Frye, Anna Hubert, Frank H. Plumb, Charles Landes, Henry Landes, W. Montelius Price, Earl E. Richards, Professor Charles E. Weaver (doubt of the first ascent claims of Colonel Benjamin F. Shaw and H.D. Clock (1885), Colonel Michael Simmons (1884), and Bernard J. Bretherton (1890))
Seattle, Mt 1907 Asahel Curtis, Grant Humes, Lorenz A. Nelson
Brothers, The (N Peak) 1908 C. Hill, W. Hill from Duckabush (very brushy)
Brothers, The (S Peak) 1912 I. Collier, O. Corkenill, W. Dehn, W. Fish, E. Goldsmith, H. Trumbull from Duckabush (very brushy)
Tom, Mt. 1914 Edmund Meany and a group of Boy Scouts including Thomas Martin, once state treasurer, for whom the peak was renamed
Anderson, Mt. 1920 Fairman B. Lee and party of thirteen Mountaineers from Hayden Pass
Constance, Mt. 1922 Robert Schellin and A. Earl "Bremerton" Smith from east via Route 7 (South Spur of NE Ridge)
Schellin, Point 1923 Lionel Chute south wall
Dana, Mt. 1928 USGS team Route 1
La Crosse, Mt. 1928 Richard Paulson, Wiliam Ryer, Paul Wiseman, Frank Woodworth
West Peak (Anderson Massif) 1930 E.B. Hamilton
Lincoln, Mt 1932 Ken Soult and F.S. Harmon
Stone, Mt 1932 Chet Ullin and party Middle Peak, via Route 1 (Y-Couloir)
Second Top 1936 A. Boye, Thelma Chambers, Lillian Lander, Ruth McNabb, Oscar Nelson, Roy Sarff
Cruiser, Mt 1937 Paul Crews and Ray Layton Route 1 (South Couloir) via IA
Athena (S. Peak Olympus) 1938 Don Dooley, George Martin, Bob "Pete" Peterson, Bob Scott
Fin, The 1939 Ruth Carlow and Don Dooley Route 2
Horn, The 1939 Ruth Carlow, Don Dooley, Robert Henderson, Elvin "Swede" Johnson
Inner Constance 1939 David Harrah and party
Pershing, Mt. (Middle Peak) 1939 Don Dooley, Robert Henderson, Walt Ingalls, Bob Mandelhorn Route 2
Pershing, Mt. (N Peak) 1939 Don Dooley, Robert Henderson, Walt Ingalls, Bob Mandelhorn Traverse from Middle Peak
Pershing, Mt. (S Peak) 1939 Don Dooley, Robert Henderson, Walt Ingalls, Bob Mandelhorn via Middle Peak and Route 4 saddle. Three peaks done in one day.
Clark, Mt. 1940 Elvin "Swede" Johnson and George Martin Route 2
Desperation Peak 1940 Walt Ingalls, Bob Henderson, Ruth Carlow, Don Dooley
Johnson, Mt 1940 Elvin "Swede" Johnson and George Martin Route 2
Martin Peak 1940 Elvin "Swede" Johnson and George Martin Route 3
Chimney Peak 1941 T. Nelson of USGS
Muncaster Mtn 1941 T. Nelson of USGS
Picture Pinnacle 1941 Fred Beckey and Helmy Beckey
Adelaide Peak 1944 Adel Degenhardt and William Degenhardt
Sundial 1944 Adel Degenhardt and William Degenhardt
Warrior Peak (NW Summit) 1945 Fred Beckey both summits, Route 1
Warrior Peak (SE Summit) 1945 Fred Beckey both summits, Route 1
Norton, Mt 1947 Pat Cummins
Piro's Spire 1947 Don Dooley, Elvin "Sweede" Johnson, Norma Johnson from Diamond Meadow
Trylon, The 1951 Fred Beckey and Helmy Beckey
Castle Spires 1952 Neal Jacques, Louis Nothwang,, Roy Smith Route 2
Church, Mt. 1955 Carlson and Coulter of Aberdeen
Hermes 1955 Richard Hubley and Ed LaChapelle
Mercury 1955 Richard Hubley and Ed LaChapelle
Alpha 1956 Roy Harniss, Craig Mecklenburg, Jack Newman
Fricaba, Mt. 1957 Don Bechlem and Jack Newman NE Peak by Bechlem, SW Peak by Newman
Mathias, Mt (Apollo) 1957 Yves Eriksson and Jim Hawkins
Noodle Needle 1957 Don N. Anderson, Jerry Koch, Jim Richardson
Bandersnatch, The 1958 Don N. Anderson, Jim Richardson, Eldin Rogers Route 1
Constance,Mt.(S. Summit) 1958 Tony Hovey and Don Keller
Curiosity Peak 1958 Arnold Bloomer, Bob Oram, Keith Spencer
Ex-Spire 1958 Arnold Bloomer, Bob Oram, Keith Spencer
Gasp Pinnacle 1958 Kent Heathershaw, Bob McKee, Forrest Spencer, Keith Spencer
Incisor, The 1958 Kent Heathershaw and Bob McKee
Jefferson Peak (Thorson Peak) 1958 Don N. Anderson, Bob Oram,  Bob Peterson, Keith Spencer Route 2 (North Couloir)
Tran Spire 1958 Don N. Anderson and Bob Peterson
Why Spire 1958 Arnold Bloomer, Bob Oram, Keith Spencer
Zee Spire 1958 Arnold Bloomer, Bob Oram, Keith Spencer
Childs, Mt. 1961 Kent Heathershaw, Doug Waali, Robert Wood
Ragamuffin 1961 Kent Heathershaw and Doug Waali
Stephen Peak 1961 Kent Heathershaw, Doug Waali, Robert Wood
Urchin, The 1961 Kent Heathershaw and Doug Waali
Walkinshaw, Mt. 1961 Joe Munson and Jim Parolini
Arrowhead, The 1962 Hilton Keith, Joel Merkel, Joe Munson, Jim Parolini
Rottenrockel Spitz 1962 Brian Gordon, Jim Schoening, Lindsay Schoening, Pete Schoening
Royal Shaft, The 1962 Hilton Keith, Joel Merkel, Joe Munson, Jim Parolini
Sweat Spire 1962 Hilton Keith, Joel Merkel, Joe Munson, Jim Parolini
Athena's Owl 1963 Bill Liggett and Gary Maykut
Gilhooley Tower 1963 Donald N. Anderson, Harold Pinsch, Joyce Pinsch
June 10th Peak 1963 Julian Ansell, Eiichi Fukushima, Curt Howard, Robert McConnell
William Fairchild, Mt. 1963 Dan Baker, Jack Christiansen, Roy Etten, Denny Pruitt Route 1
Aphrodite 1964 Brad Albro, Kent Heathershaw, Herb Lee, Dave Sicks, Florence Smith, Ben West, Marilyn West of the Olympic College climbing class
Hugin 1966 William Howarth, Ernie Labistida, Ivan Lindgren, Jim Wall
Icarus 1966 Ben and Marilyn West
Woden 1966 Ernie Labistida and Ivan Lindgren
Squaw, The 1967 Arnold Bloomer, Glenn Kelsey, Bob Oram, Harold Pinsch, Keith Spencer
Turret 1967 Roy Etten, Kent Heathershaw, Keith Spencer
Brave, The 1968 Arnold Bloomer, Glenn Kelsey, Robert Latz, Keith Spencer
Etcetera Spire 1968 Arnold Bloomer, Glenn Kelsey, Robert Latz, Harold Pinsch
Infinity Tower 1968 David Muntz and Rich Olson, Jr. prusik ascent (first free ascent 1985 by Dave Blythe, Steve Rowe, Linda Stretz, Dan Tennant)
Upper Gargoyle 1968 Roy Etten, Kent Heathershaw, Keith Spencer
Bicentennial Peak 1970 M. Doherty
Chimney, The 1970 Mike Banner and Vern Johnson
Baldur 1971 Roger Beckett, Dave Haley, Glenn Kelsey, Monty Lennox, Dan Michael, Harold Pinsch, Dave Stevens, Bob Yekel
Frigga 1971 Roger Beckett, Dave Haley, Glenn Kelsey, Monty Lennox, Dan Michael, Harold Pinsch, Dave Stevens, Bob Yekel
Loki Spire 1971 Roger Beckett, Dave Haley, Glenn Kelsey, Monty Lennox, Dan Michael, Dave Stevens, Bob Yekel
Munin 1971 Roger Beckett, Dave Haley, Glenn Kelsey, Monty Lennox, Dan Michael, Harold Pinsch, Dave Stevens, Bob Yekel
Thor 1971 Roger Beckett, Dave Haley, Glenn Kelsey, Monty Lennox, Dan Michael, Dave Stevens, Bob Yekel
Devil's Fang 1972 Bruno Caprez, Pat Lathrop, Mike Clarke
Mystery, Mt. (N Peak) 1972 Ken Leibert first recorded ascent, found evidence of at least one previous ascent
Peak 4851 1972 Chan Arnold, Bruce Craswell, Glenn Kelsey
Minaret 1973 Howard Dawson, Paul Beaumier, Tom Whitney, Dale Mittge
Peak 5077 1973 Karen Pentony and Howard Weaver Route 1
Aeterna Tower 1974 Pat Carney, Rick LaBelle, Mike Martin Route 1
Jackson Spire 1975 Peter Janker and Greg Wornell
Michael, Mt. 1975 Peter Janker, Doug Klewin, Mike McNerthney
Lower Gargoyle 1976 Rod Chelgren and Ken Pearce
Papoose, The 1976 L. Frank Maranville and Mac McCleary
Watterson, Mt. 1976 George Bauer, Ron Brown, Bill Foster, Bill Larson, Mike Lonac, Sue Ritter, Roy Teague, Jim White
April Peak 1977 L. Frank Maranville, Mac McCleary, Steven Estvanik, Jim Wilson
Bragi 1978 Jim King, Bill Larson, Mike Lonac, Mike Merchant, Rich Stewart, Fran Stinchfield, Jim White
Finite Tower 1978 L. Frank Maranville, Mike Lonac, Mike Gaffney, Jim White
Mimir 1978 Jim King, Bill Larson, Mike Lonac, Mike Merchant, Rich Stewart, Fran Stinchfield, Jim White
Nun, The 1978 Frank Maranville and Jim Wilson Route 1
Sleipner 1978 Bill Larson, Mike Lonac, Jim White
Vidar-North 1978 Bill Larson, Mike Lonac, Jim White
Vidar-South 1978 Bill Larson, Mike Lonac, Jim White
Vili 1978 Rick Burke, Terry Burke, Jim White
Enigma 1979 L. Frank Maranville, Mac McCleary, Randy Nelson Route 1
Destroyer 1980 Dave Bogucki, L. Frank Maranville, Peter Reagan
Peak 5827 1981 George Bauer, Mary Jane Bauer, Bill Larson, Gladys Larson, Fleet Ratliff
Tower 6700 1982 Ralph Bell, Kerry Lowry, Linda Stretz, Tom Whitney
Harrah, Point 1983 Kevin Page and Jim White
Smith, Point 1983 Shane Baker, Kevin Page, Allan Sande Route 1
Freyja 1984 George Bauer, Bill Larson, Frank Ratliff, Roy Teague, Jim White
Brave, The (E. Tower) 1986 Tom Whitney, Jeff Williams, Stephanie Williams
Rover Peak 1986 Bill Larson, Fleet Ratliff, Jim White
Scrambler Peak 1986 Bill Larson, Fleet Ratliff, Jim White
Yonder Peak 1986 Bill Larson, Fleet Ratliff, Jim White
Wounded Knee 1997 Mike Banner, Vern Johnson, Don MacWilliam

*Table compiled by Steph Abegg. Email climbersguideolympics@gmail.com with any comments or corrections.
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