Photo: In the Heart of the Olympics, 9-plate panorama from the summit of Mt. Queets, 1907. (Click to enlarge.)
 Photo from the first Ascent of Mt. Olympus, published in the 1907 edition of The Mountaineer Annual. |
This page provides a timeline and listing of the recorded first ascents in the Olympic Mountain Range, from Mt. Ellinor in 1879 to Wounded Knee in 1997. Note that the first ascents listed are the first recorded party on the summit, via any route. First route ascents are not considered, and many peaks are not listed.
The list was compiled from information in the Climber's Guide.
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Timeline of Recorded First Ascents in Olympic Mountain Range, 1879-1997 (sorted by year)
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Table of Recorded First Ascents in Olympic Mountain Range, 1879-1997 (sorted by year)
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- PEAK NAME = name of peak or formation
-
YEAR = year of recorded first ascent;
-
PARTY = names of party members;
-
NOTES = any other notes from guide, for example, the route taken.
|
PEAK NAME
|
YEAR
|
PARTY
|
NOTES
|
| Ellinor, Mt |
1879 |
D. Utler, H. Esteps, Mr and Mrs J. Waughop |
from Lake Cushman |
| Athena II |
1890 |
Berbard J. Bretherton, Nelson E. Linsley, Private John Danton |
strong evidence this was the first ascent, making it the first Olympic "seven thousander" to be climbed. The men were members of a party sent to Mt. Olympus by Lieutenant Joseph P. O'Neil, commander of an exploring expedition jointly mounted by the US Army and the Oregon Alpine Club. They placed a copper box containing a register book about 400 feet below the summit, but apparently it has never been found. |
| Queets, Mt |
1890 |
Harry Fisher (aka James B. Hanmore) and Nelson Linsley of the O'Neil Expedition |
|
| Duckabush, Mt |
1899 |
L.F Murdock |
|
| Olympus, Mt (E Peak) |
1899 |
Jack McGlone, member of the Dodwell-Rixon survey party |
|
| Christie, Mt |
1907 |
Asahel Curtis and party |
|
| Meany, Mt |
1907 |
Asahel Curtis, Lorenz A. Nelson, Peter McGregor |
|
| Noyes, Mt |
1907 |
Asahel Curtis and Grant Humes |
|
| Olympus, Mt (Middle Peak) |
1907 |
Belmore H. Browne, Walter G. Clarke, Will Humes, Hershel C. Parker, Dewitt "Dewey" Sisson |
|
| Olympus, Mt (W Peak) |
1907 |
Lorenz A. Nelson and ten members of The Mountaineers - Andrew W. Archer, John B. Flett, Theodore C. Frye, Anna Hubert, Frank H. Plumb, Charles Landes, Henry Landes, W. Montelius Price, Earl E. Richards, Professor Charles E. Weaver |
(doubt of the first ascent claims of Colonel Benjamin F. Shaw and H.D. Clock (1885), Colonel Michael Simmons (1884), and Bernard J. Bretherton (1890)) |
| Seattle, Mt |
1907 |
Asahel Curtis, Grant Humes, Lorenz A. Nelson |
|
| Brothers, The (N Peak) |
1908 |
C. Hill, W. Hill |
from Duckabush (very brushy) |
| Brothers, The (S Peak) |
1912 |
I. Collier, O. Corkenill, W. Dehn, W. Fish, E. Goldsmith, H. Trumbull |
from Duckabush (very brushy) |
| Tom, Mt. |
1914 |
Edmund Meany and a group of Boy Scouts including Thomas Martin, once state treasurer, for whom the peak was renamed |
|
| Anderson, Mt. |
1920 |
Fairman B. Lee and party of thirteen Mountaineers |
from Hayden Pass |
| Constance, Mt. |
1922 |
Robert Schellin and A. Earl "Bremerton" Smith |
from east via Route 7 (South Spur of NE Ridge) |
| Schellin, Point |
1923 |
Lionel Chute |
south wall |
| Dana, Mt. |
1928 |
USGS team |
Route 1 |
| La Crosse, Mt. |
1928 |
Richard Paulson, Wiliam Ryer, Paul Wiseman, Frank Woodworth |
|
| West Peak (Anderson Massif) |
1930 |
E.B. Hamilton |
|
| Lincoln, Mt |
1932 |
Ken Soult and F.S. Harmon |
|
| Stone, Mt |
1932 |
Chet Ullin and party |
Middle Peak, via Route 1 (Y-Couloir) |
| Second Top |
1936 |
A. Boye, Thelma Chambers, Lillian Lander, Ruth McNabb, Oscar Nelson, Roy Sarff |
|
| Cruiser, Mt |
1937 |
Paul Crews and Ray Layton |
Route 1 (South Couloir) via IA |
| Athena (S. Peak Olympus) |
1938 |
Don Dooley, George Martin, Bob "Pete" Peterson, Bob Scott |
|
| Fin, The |
1939 |
Ruth Carlow and Don Dooley |
Route 2 |
| Horn, The |
1939 |
Ruth Carlow, Don Dooley, Robert Henderson, Elvin "Swede" Johnson |
|
| Inner Constance |
1939 |
David Harrah and party |
|
| Pershing, Mt. (Middle Peak) |
1939 |
Don Dooley, Robert Henderson, Walt Ingalls, Bob Mandelhorn |
Route 2 |
| Pershing, Mt. (N Peak) |
1939 |
Don Dooley, Robert Henderson, Walt Ingalls, Bob Mandelhorn |
Traverse from Middle Peak |
| Pershing, Mt. (S Peak) |
1939 |
Don Dooley, Robert Henderson, Walt Ingalls, Bob Mandelhorn |
via Middle Peak and Route 4 saddle. Three peaks done in one day. |
| Clark, Mt. |
1940 |
Elvin "Swede" Johnson and George Martin |
Route 2 |
| Desperation Peak |
1940 |
Walt Ingalls, Bob Henderson, Ruth Carlow, Don Dooley |
|
| Johnson, Mt |
1940 |
Elvin "Swede" Johnson and George Martin |
Route 2 |
| Martin Peak |
1940 |
Elvin "Swede" Johnson and George Martin |
Route 3 |
| Chimney Peak |
1941 |
T. Nelson of USGS |
|
| Muncaster Mtn |
1941 |
T. Nelson of USGS |
|
| Picture Pinnacle |
1941 |
Fred Beckey and Helmy Beckey |
|
| Adelaide Peak |
1944 |
Adel Degenhardt and William Degenhardt |
|
| Sundial |
1944 |
Adel Degenhardt and William Degenhardt |
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| Warrior Peak (NW Summit) |
1945 |
Fred Beckey |
both summits, Route 1 |
| Warrior Peak (SE Summit) |
1945 |
Fred Beckey |
both summits, Route 1 |
| Norton, Mt |
1947 |
Pat Cummins |
|
| Piro's Spire |
1947 |
Don Dooley, Elvin "Sweede" Johnson, Norma Johnson |
from Diamond Meadow |
| Trylon, The |
1951 |
Fred Beckey and Helmy Beckey |
|
| Castle Spires |
1952 |
Neal Jacques, Louis Nothwang,, Roy Smith |
Route 2 |
| Church, Mt. |
1955 |
Carlson and Coulter of Aberdeen |
|
| Hermes |
1955 |
Richard Hubley and Ed LaChapelle |
|
| Mercury |
1955 |
Richard Hubley and Ed LaChapelle |
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| Alpha |
1956 |
Roy Harniss, Craig Mecklenburg, Jack Newman |
|
| Fricaba, Mt. |
1957 |
Don Bechlem and Jack Newman |
NE Peak by Bechlem, SW Peak by Newman |
| Mathias, Mt (Apollo) |
1957 |
Yves Eriksson and Jim Hawkins |
|
| Noodle Needle |
1957 |
Don N. Anderson, Jerry Koch, Jim Richardson |
|
| Bandersnatch, The |
1958 |
Don N. Anderson, Jim Richardson, Eldin Rogers |
Route 1 |
| Constance,Mt.(S. Summit) |
1958 |
Tony Hovey and Don Keller |
|
| Curiosity Peak |
1958 |
Arnold Bloomer, Bob Oram, Keith Spencer |
|
| Ex-Spire |
1958 |
Arnold Bloomer, Bob Oram, Keith Spencer |
|
| Gasp Pinnacle |
1958 |
Kent Heathershaw, Bob McKee, Forrest Spencer, Keith Spencer |
|
| Incisor, The |
1958 |
Kent Heathershaw and Bob McKee |
|
| Jefferson Peak (Thorson Peak) |
1958 |
Don N. Anderson, Bob Oram, Bob Peterson, Keith Spencer |
Route 2 (North Couloir) |
| Tran Spire |
1958 |
Don N. Anderson and Bob Peterson |
|
| Why Spire |
1958 |
Arnold Bloomer, Bob Oram, Keith Spencer |
|
| Zee Spire |
1958 |
Arnold Bloomer, Bob Oram, Keith Spencer |
|
| Childs, Mt. |
1961 |
Kent Heathershaw, Doug Waali, Robert Wood |
|
| Ragamuffin |
1961 |
Kent Heathershaw and Doug Waali |
|
| Stephen Peak |
1961 |
Kent Heathershaw, Doug Waali, Robert Wood |
|
| Urchin, The |
1961 |
Kent Heathershaw and Doug Waali |
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| Walkinshaw, Mt. |
1961 |
Joe Munson and Jim Parolini |
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| Arrowhead, The |
1962 |
Hilton Keith, Joel Merkel, Joe Munson, Jim Parolini |
|
| Rottenrockel Spitz |
1962 |
Brian Gordon, Jim Schoening, Lindsay Schoening, Pete Schoening |
|
| Royal Shaft, The |
1962 |
Hilton Keith, Joel Merkel, Joe Munson, Jim Parolini |
|
| Sweat Spire |
1962 |
Hilton Keith, Joel Merkel, Joe Munson, Jim Parolini |
|
| Athena's Owl |
1963 |
Bill Liggett and Gary Maykut |
|
| Gilhooley Tower |
1963 |
Donald N. Anderson, Harold Pinsch, Joyce Pinsch |
|
| June 10th Peak |
1963 |
Julian Ansell, Eiichi Fukushima, Curt Howard, Robert McConnell |
|
| William Fairchild, Mt. |
1963 |
Dan Baker, Jack Christiansen, Roy Etten, Denny Pruitt |
Route 1 |
| Aphrodite |
1964 |
Brad Albro, Kent Heathershaw, Herb Lee, Dave Sicks, Florence Smith, Ben West, Marilyn West of the Olympic College climbing class |
|
| Hugin |
1966 |
William Howarth, Ernie Labistida, Ivan Lindgren, Jim Wall |
|
| Icarus |
1966 |
Ben and Marilyn West |
|
| Woden |
1966 |
Ernie Labistida and Ivan Lindgren |
|
| Squaw, The |
1967 |
Arnold Bloomer, Glenn Kelsey, Bob Oram, Harold Pinsch, Keith Spencer |
|
| Turret |
1967 |
Roy Etten, Kent Heathershaw, Keith Spencer |
|
| Brave, The |
1968 |
Arnold Bloomer, Glenn Kelsey, Robert Latz, Keith Spencer |
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| Etcetera Spire |
1968 |
Arnold Bloomer, Glenn Kelsey, Robert Latz, Harold Pinsch |
|
| Infinity Tower |
1968 |
David Muntz and Rich Olson, Jr. |
prusik ascent (first free ascent 1985 by Dave Blythe, Steve Rowe, Linda Stretz, Dan Tennant) |
| Upper Gargoyle |
1968 |
Roy Etten, Kent Heathershaw, Keith Spencer |
|
| Bicentennial Peak |
1970 |
M. Doherty |
|
| Chimney, The |
1970 |
Mike Banner and Vern Johnson |
|
| Baldur |
1971 |
Roger Beckett, Dave Haley, Glenn Kelsey, Monty Lennox, Dan Michael, Harold Pinsch, Dave Stevens, Bob Yekel |
|
| Frigga |
1971 |
Roger Beckett, Dave Haley, Glenn Kelsey, Monty Lennox, Dan Michael, Harold Pinsch, Dave Stevens, Bob Yekel |
|
| Loki Spire |
1971 |
Roger Beckett, Dave Haley, Glenn Kelsey, Monty Lennox, Dan Michael, Dave Stevens, Bob Yekel |
|
| Munin |
1971 |
Roger Beckett, Dave Haley, Glenn Kelsey, Monty Lennox, Dan Michael, Harold Pinsch, Dave Stevens, Bob Yekel |
|
| Thor |
1971 |
Roger Beckett, Dave Haley, Glenn Kelsey, Monty Lennox, Dan Michael, Dave Stevens, Bob Yekel |
|
| Devil's Fang |
1972 |
Bruno Caprez, Pat Lathrop, Mike Clarke |
|
| Mystery, Mt. (N Peak) |
1972 |
Ken Leibert |
first recorded ascent, found evidence of at least one previous ascent |
| Peak 4851 |
1972 |
Chan Arnold, Bruce Craswell, Glenn Kelsey |
|
| Minaret |
1973 |
Howard Dawson, Paul Beaumier, Tom Whitney, Dale Mittge |
|
| Peak 5077 |
1973 |
Karen Pentony and Howard Weaver |
Route 1 |
| Aeterna Tower |
1974 |
Pat Carney, Rick LaBelle, Mike Martin |
Route 1 |
| Jackson Spire |
1975 |
Peter Janker and Greg Wornell |
|
| Michael, Mt. |
1975 |
Peter Janker, Doug Klewin, Mike McNerthney |
|
| Lower Gargoyle |
1976 |
Rod Chelgren and Ken Pearce |
|
| Papoose, The |
1976 |
L. Frank Maranville and Mac McCleary |
|
| Watterson, Mt. |
1976 |
George Bauer, Ron Brown, Bill Foster, Bill Larson, Mike Lonac, Sue Ritter, Roy Teague, Jim White |
|
| April Peak |
1977 |
L. Frank Maranville, Mac McCleary, Steven Estvanik, Jim Wilson |
|
| Bragi |
1978 |
Jim King, Bill Larson, Mike Lonac, Mike Merchant, Rich Stewart, Fran Stinchfield, Jim White |
|
| Finite Tower |
1978 |
L. Frank Maranville, Mike Lonac, Mike Gaffney, Jim White |
|
| Mimir |
1978 |
Jim King, Bill Larson, Mike Lonac, Mike Merchant, Rich Stewart, Fran Stinchfield, Jim White |
|
| Nun, The |
1978 |
Frank Maranville and Jim Wilson |
Route 1 |
| Sleipner |
1978 |
Bill Larson, Mike Lonac, Jim White |
|
| Vidar-North |
1978 |
Bill Larson, Mike Lonac, Jim White |
|
| Vidar-South |
1978 |
Bill Larson, Mike Lonac, Jim White |
|
| Vili |
1978 |
Rick Burke, Terry Burke, Jim White |
|
| Enigma |
1979 |
L. Frank Maranville, Mac McCleary, Randy Nelson |
Route 1 |
| Destroyer |
1980 |
Dave Bogucki, L. Frank Maranville, Peter Reagan |
|
| Peak 5827 |
1981 |
George Bauer, Mary Jane Bauer, Bill Larson, Gladys Larson, Fleet Ratliff |
|
| Tower 6700 |
1982 |
Ralph Bell, Kerry Lowry, Linda Stretz, Tom Whitney |
|
| Harrah, Point |
1983 |
Kevin Page and Jim White |
|
| Smith, Point |
1983 |
Shane Baker, Kevin Page, Allan Sande |
Route 1 |
| Freyja |
1984 |
George Bauer, Bill Larson, Frank Ratliff, Roy Teague, Jim White |
|
| Brave, The (E. Tower) |
1986 |
Tom Whitney, Jeff Williams, Stephanie Williams |
|
| Rover Peak |
1986 |
Bill Larson, Fleet Ratliff, Jim White |
|
| Scrambler Peak |
1986 |
Bill Larson, Fleet Ratliff, Jim White |
|
| Yonder Peak |
1986 |
Bill Larson, Fleet Ratliff, Jim White |
|
| Wounded Knee |
1997 |
Mike Banner, Vern Johnson, Don MacWilliam |
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*Table compiled by Steph Abegg. Email climbersguideolympics@gmail.com with any comments or corrections. |
