BR4 - Boston Charlie's to Mt Ferry via Mt Carrie

On this scenic and interesting climbing route, there is considerable elevation gain and loss. Allow a full day for this. The route involves glacier travel and should not be attempted by inexperienced climbers. Crampons are recommended. This route should only be attempted in early season due to a steep pitch of snow on the eastern finger of the Carrie Glacier, which becomes ice mid-season (or be prepared to ice climb)!

From the SE end, routes continue either S to Queets Basin (BR6) or E to Dodger Point (BR5). On the NW end this traverse can also be linked with BR2 (Appleton Pass to Cat Basin). See the published Climbers Guide for detailed approach information.

Route:

From "Boston Charlie's," follow the trail ascending several hundred feet in elevation. At the trail junction on the broad Carrie shoulder, follow the left path along the NE ridge to a small canyon. Traverse through the canyon, then move off the ridge. Follow a faint climbers' path E then SE, traversing on sharp scree and snow through a cirque below Carrie's NW ridge. Attain the ridge just NW of Mt. Carrie.

From the Carrie summit, descend 150 ft. on the SE Carrie ridge and drop onto the Carrie Glacier. Descend E, 900 ft down the Carrie Glacier, along a visible and unique snow ridge. Continue ESE, traversing well below Ruth Peak. Proceed ESE, ascending the steep eastern finger of the Carrie Glacier. Climb well to the right o the large rock buttress to avoid rockfall. Cross through a notch at 6400 ft in a NE spur ridge that intersects the Bailey Ridge crest and bounds the Carrie Glacier. This notch is directly S of Peak 6563. From the notch, follow a ramp down into a right-curving, snowy basin on moderate terrain to Stephen Lake,  the large  lake W of Stephen Peak (lake is unnamed on maps).

From Stephen Lake, proceed E to the base of Stephen Peak. Ascend a broad couloir SE on steep scree and snow. Attain an upper snowfield and continue to a broad ridge NE and a few hundred feet below Stephen Peak. Descend SE from here, traversing to pick up a broad bench on the ridge SE of Stephen Peak. Follow the curving ridge SE then SSE, going over small peaks and traversing left or right to avoid difficulties. Drop onto upper Ferry Basin where it is easy to do so, just before Peak 5616. From Mt. Ferry Basin, there are three possible routes to the crest of the Bailey Range:

(1) The summit of Mt. Ferry can be traversed, and though not difficult, this entails the most work.

(2) The valley between Mt. Ferry and Mt. Pulitzer is easy to ascend past the remnant glacier to the broad saddle and is the most popular route.

(3) A more difficult, scenic route is the heather meadows S of Pulitzer leading up to Lone Tree Pass S of Pulitzer.

Once on top of the Bailey Range crest, travel is simple to the E of both Pulitzer and Ferry on broad, grassy benches.

From the saddle, routes continue either S to Queets Basin (BR6) or E to Dodger Point (BR5). 


Links to other traverses in Bailey Range Area:



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